Its suitable for the last few inches of the wire inside the box, IMO.Īng again, if and only if this is due to heat from the fixture, NOT if its due to some high impedance short or other failure. What I stated is a protective measure to better insulate the existing wires given that the ratings of the crispy insulation might not be the same anymore. I wouldnt replace insulation outside of the box, but if this were heat damage, I wouldnt expect it to go much beyond the box where the heat was the highest. Would replacing the insulation be okay outside of the box? The wires at the switch were normal, IIRC. The light switch controlling the fixture was replaced as a part of a different project. It comes with a template that you can use for cutting and arranging wires. They are designed and approved for use in rework within existing structures. The glue on the back of the insulation is brown, and the foil face is disintegrating. This is great for extending romex without using a junction box. Tyco Electronics Non-metallic splice and tap kits provide a fast and reliable method for splicing or tapping 2 wire w/ ground and splicing 3 wire w/ground non-metallic cables up to 300 volts. The fixture itself shows signs of heat damage. Seems to me, that I saw some sort of UL splice kit that approved for installing concealed into a wall. Most of the wiring can be reinstalled, some will just have the top plate and install nail plates. Via ammeter), then Id get either some heat shrink and/or some high temp fiberglass-silicone slip over insulation and fix it. GC removed the old fur down framing built above the cabinets. If you could absolutely verify that to be so (e.g. These devices are listed in the UL White book as Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable Interconnectors (QAAV).Could this be due to the heat from the fixture? If an electrician has the accessibility and availability to replace existing wiring with new wiring, there would be no need for a device such as a nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector. One of the major things to remember about this product is that the device is for “repair” purposes only. This quote from the IAEI Magazine article Enter the Nonmetallic-sheathed Cable Interconnector, sums it up quite well. Which means that they should only be used where a cable was damaged, and replacing the cable is not practicable. The device can be concealed, but only when used in existing buildings for " repair wiring". Now the devices can still be used where exposed, but the concealed use has changed. Self-contained switches, self-contained receptacles and nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector devices of insulating material that are listed shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for repair wiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed. National Electrical Code 2014ģ34.40(B) Devices of Insulating Materials. In the 2014 version of the code, things changed a bit. Non Metallic Splice Kit 12-14 AWG for 2 Conductors with Ground Non Metallic Splice Kits are used for splicing 12 or 14 AWG solid conductor, 2-conductor. This would allow for the extraction of the device, for inspection, maintenance, and repair. Adding the " fished" requirement, meant that the device would not be fastened in place. Which means the devices could be used in exposed locations, and concealed in existing buildings, but only when fished. Switch, outlet, and tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for rewiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed and fished. National Electrical Code 2011ģ34.40(B) Devices of Insulating Materials. The 2011 version of the code had this to say. The use of these devices is limited to specific situations, which are described in 334.40(B) of the National Electrical Code.
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